As I stand at Santiago de Compostela’s main center, I feel the same happiness as travelers who have finished the Camino de Santiago, which translates to “Way of St. James” in Spanish. They triumphantly step on a scallop shell engraved into the pavement in front of the city’s majestic cathedral, their faces burnt and their walking sticks tattered. For pilgrims who have trekked here from churches in Paris and throughout Europe, this cathedral in the far northwest corner of Spain has served as the ceremonial last destination for more than a millennium. Nowadays, the 450-mile walk from the French border town of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port takes most people a month.
Be in the square around ten in the morning to take in the sight. The majority of pilgrims reach the cathedral in time for the 12:00 Mass, and the final overnight site on the Camino (or pilgrimage) is two miles distant. Speaking with pilgrims who have recently finished their trek is a lot of pleasure. They appear to be quite balanced, happy with the experience, and aware of what matters most in life such as spending time conversing with others.
The namesake and emblem of Santiago, James, was a Christian preacher and one of Jesus’ first “fishers of men.” However, according on his portrayal here, his primary function was to use his busy sword to decapitate Muslims. All over the town are propaganda monuments of James, who is said to have come down from heaven to aid the Spaniards in their victory against the Muslim Moors.
The square is guarded by police. Since September 11, 2001, security has been strict here, and it has become even more so since the bombing of Madrid’s commuter trains on March 11, 2004. Islamic radicals frequently target Santiago’s cathedral, one of the most popular pilgrimage destinations in Christendom. The fact that St. James is seen enjoying the act of killing Muslims doesn’t help either.
The “discovery” of St. James’s remains in Spain is thought by historians to have been a medieval fake. Its purpose was to mobilize Europe against the Muslim Moors, who had overrun Spain and threatened to spread into Europe. After St. James, often known as “the Moor Slayer,” was buried in Iberia, all of Europe rose up to drive the Muslims back into Africa. This was accomplished in 1492, following a centuries-long “Reconquista.”
The origin of all this chaos can be traced back approximately 1,200 years to a monk who found what seemed to be St. James’ long-lost tomb by following a field of stars likely the Milky Way to this far-off region of Europe. After announcing the discovery of St. James’ relics, church authorities erected a church and gave the location the name Santiago (St. James) de Compostela (campo de estrellas, or “field of stars”).
Consider yourself a pilgrim from the Middle Ages. You just traveled over 700 miles on foot from Paris to arrive at this cathedral. Your objective is to ask St. James for assistance in getting better from an illness. Or perhaps you’ve come to fulfill a dying relative’s request or to receive forgiveness for your transgressions. For whatever reason, you are aware that the pope guaranteed forgiveness to anyone who walked to Santiago during a Holy Year, confessed their sins, and received communion here.
When you see the cathedral’s spire after weeks of hiking, your weary pace quickens with joy. When you finally stand on the shell in the pavement, you can look up at the magnificent church. When you enter, you can see the statue of St. James that marks his grave when you squint down the nave. You kneel by St. James’s silver tomb, offer up your desire, and pray. Then, as you look gratefully out over the cathedral, you ascend the stairs behind the altar to the saint’s revered statue, which is gilded and covered in priceless gems. There, you wait your time to give him a back embrace. The Camino de Santiago is finished.
The Way of St. James hasn’t changed much over the ages. A cloak, a floppy hat, a walking stick, a gourd (for drinking from wells), and a scallop shell (for representing your destination) are still part of the equipment. The actual route consists of a sort of hut-hopping. You’ll come across modest government-funded lodgings called albergues at regular points along the way, where pilgrims can spend the night (free bunks, though small donations are frequently accepted).
About 100,000 pilgrims now walk to Santiago, demonstrating the route’s recent enormous resurgence in popularity. Hikers are increasingly joined by bikers and horseback riders. Whether you hike the full Camino de Santiago or just the final portion, or even if you’re only there to feel the excitement of the most recent pilgrims to complete the route, it’s an experience that will last a lifetime.
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